But what is mohair exactly? Glad you asked. Mohair- like wool- is an animal-derived fiber and comes from the Angora goat. Not to be confused with angora fiber which is also fuzzy and comes from Angora Rabbits. Both animals originate from the same region of Turkey: Ankara, a.k.a. “The Cozy Lands” (just kidding about that last part).
South Africa, the United States, and Turkey are currently the 3 largest producers of mohair fiber. Texas, with a herd of 200,000 goats accounts for 90% of the USA’s production. Who knew?
Angora goats are sheared twice a year for their coats. The fibers increase in diameter with the age of the goat. The finer, softer hair from younger animals is used in clothing + accessory production and yarns.
Mohair takes dye exceptionally well, making it a favorite among kooky home knitters and high-end men’s suiting ateliers alike.
In many mohair yarns and garments you’ll typically find the mohair is blended with other fibers: often wool, and/or acrylic or nylon. The result gives you all the sheen, luster, and texture of mohair with some added spring and grip for holding shape that smooth mohair fiber alone lacks.
Mohair had a big a moment in the late 50s/early 60s with mohair cardigans and sweaters (as well as winter accessories). It resurged in the grunge movement of the early 90s, along with vintage knits and thrifted style more generally. This was followed closely by an interest in deconstructed mohair knits on the runways in the early aughts (think Junya Wantanabe for Commes des Garcon). This might partially explain why it feels like its trending again right now, along with other 90s and y2k fashion moments.
I also think there’s been an increased interest in “cottage industry” fashion: totally unique pieces made by hand one at a time, that look and feel made by hand, as a response to fast fashion. The Nongrak is one great example of this trend at work in a contemporary setting. Vintage 80s pieces from labels like Susie Lee and Ann Arundell also fit this category.
In any case, mohair is a fabulous fiber with many applications and ways to love it.
This brings me to the second half of this blog: the most famous mohair of all.
Kurt Cobain wore a thrifted 1960s mohair cardigan to Nirvana’s MTV "Unplugged" performance in 1993. It was a piece he apparently wore frequently during that time until his death a year later. The unassuming, rather dingy cardigan was gifted to a house keeper by Courtney Love shortly after his passing and eventually sold at auction in 2015 for $137,500. It came up for auction again in 2019 and sold for a whopping $334,400, right as mohair was beginning its most recent surge in popularity.
Which begs the question: did the sale of Cobain’s cardigan single-handedly move the needle on mohair back in 2019? Or was it riding a wave already set in motion by larger fashion forces at work?
We may never know. But fear not, if “90s Seattle Grunge Scene” is your mohair flavor of choice, 1960s cardigans very similar to Cobain’s (and likely cleaner) can be found from vendors online for around $200-400.
What's We, Mcgee's current favorite? These vintage Hayfield knitting patterns:
Sources:
https://www.svrn.com/blogs/features/the-resurgence-of-mohair
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-50199103
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohair
]]>-as you build and refresh your sustainably sourced wardrobe focus on natural fibers-
Every time we wash and dry our clothes millions of micro fibers are shed and released into either the water or the air. Best for those fibers to be naturally derived: cotton, linen, wool, silk, hemp, etc. rather than plastic (synthetics like polyester, nylon, anything with stretch) which doesn’t biodegrade and will eventually make its way into our food or water supply chain.
-wash less often-
kind of obvious, but always good to remember that washing garments less saves water, electricity, and prolongs the life of the garment itself. In our home only athletic gear, undergarments and babywear get washed after one use. Jeans, blouses, sweaters, office wear, everything else can usually be re-worn at least a few times.
hot tip: when it comes to extending your tops and dresses for 2-3 wears before washing, finding a natural deodorant that works for you (I love the Weleda spray) and wearing natural fibers will help reduce stinky sweat production and prevent creepy antiperspirant related staining. I’m also a big proponent of sourcing everyday pieces that have a loose fit through the shoulder + underarms for ease of movement but also breathability.
a little guide to healthiest deodorant products via EWG
hotter tip: if you frequently like to wear fitted retro styles, I know a lot of women like underarm protectors, which can be pinned or tacked in and can help avoid anxiety-inducing wet washing of vintage fabrics or extra trips to the dry cleaner.
-dry less often-
when you do a load of wash, consider what items can be hung to dry. I use a folding rack and for garments that aren’t heavy/don’t stretch, hangers on the shower curtain rod. Some items *do* benefit from a little fluff in the dryer to soften and de-wrinkle them a bit. I suggest letting them mostly air dry then popping them in the dryer for a quick 15 minute finish. Once again, saves electricity, reduces fiber shedding and prolongs the life of garments. Outdoor lines are awesome too, especially on breezy sunny days. if you have the outdoor space to set one up you should def go for it. Ours is retractable so it doesn’t get in the way of other yard activities when not in use.
-wash with cold water-
Most of our clothes do not need hot water to clean them. Use a cold cycle to save hot water and prolong clothing life. Generally in garment care, exposure to high direct heat should be avoided where possible. less heat = longer life. We generally use warm/hot water only for kitchen/bath linens, gym wear, and soiled baby clothes.
-use an EWG highly rated laundry detergent-
probably the easiest step we can take towards a more sustainable laundry practice is finding a healthier detergent. There are so many eco-friendly, “natural” detergent options out there. I love the Environmental Working Group’s list of rated products. It will help you find one that works for you and that you can easily pick up at one of your local retailers. Generally avoid fragrance (fragrance = chemicals) or any kind of deodorizing, anti bacterial, anti wrinkle, products. These all have more chemicals, many of which are carcinogenic (aka cancer causing) or endocrine disrupting (aka fuck with your hormones + reproductive health).
access the EWG Laundry List here!
Hot tip: if you want to get real real with it you can make your own detergent using a handful of natural ingredients. There are tons of tutorials online. This one has only 3 ingredients! If you are already using homemade detergent and love it, let me know what you’re doing! It’s on my “To Try” list!!
-avoid dryer sheets and fabric softener-
I’ve used pretty neutral language so far, but dryer sheets are basically cancer causing/endocrine-disrupting chemical delivery systems. LOL. But seriously, they are loaded with fabric softener which is loaded with chemicals you do not need or want on or near your body, in your home, or released into the environment. not only that, they aren’t great for your clothes!
but you don’t have to take my word for it:
“Not only does fabric softener not do what it promises, but it also prevents the fabrics from functioning the way they’re designed. With regular use of fabric softeners or dryer sheets, activewear becomes less breathable, children’s clothing becomes less flame-retardant, and towels become less absorbent.”
full (and very compelling) article from apartment therapy here!
Wool dryer balls are a good natural alternative. They can last up to a year, help fluff your clothes, speed the drying process, and have naturally occurring lanolin which is nature’s conditioner. I haven’t done it myself, but I think you can even use essential oil with them to add a little natural scent to the laundry cycle, now that you’ve cut out all those nasty artificial fragrances.
we have some locally sourced dryer balls (made from local sheep's wool!) available in the shop if you want to give them a try!
-avoid dry cleaning when possible (it is often possible)-
Dry cleaning is a process that involves a lot of chemicals that are harmful to you and the environment. Conventional dry cleaning also requires exposing garments to high heat, which can stress fabrics over time, and be particularly harmful to older garments.
As you have probably noted, many garments made in the past 50 years include care instructions, and many of them simply say “dry clean only”. There is an industry regulation reason for this:
“Under the law, if either washing or dry cleaning can be used on the product, the label needs to state only one of these instructions—and which one ultimately appears on the label is up to the manufacturer. An expert in textiles who asked that her name not be used for this article revealed to us that “clothing manufacturers tend to opt for as few instructions on the label as is legally required.” Given a a choice between “wash” and “dry clean,” manufacturers tend to choose the latter because it is more likely to lead to the consumer leaving the care of the item to professionals, and professional cleaning can reduce the manufacturer’s risk of of return by the consumer who mishandles the item with home-cleaning.”
More on what dry cleaning means here!
I successfully machine or hand wash many many many pieces for myself and for the shop with dry clean only tags- this includes rayons, linens, silks, woolens and cashmeres oh my. You can too!
hot tip: if you have a newer washer dryer (like in the past 20 years), make sure you’re making the best use of the settings to be as economical as possible, and not just going with the auto settings. For me this means making sure its set to a cold cycle, and that the soil setting is appropriate (sometimes its lighter than “normal”). Delicate and handwash cycles are a great option for those “dry clean only” labeled pieces you’re nervous about wet washing.
-practice general garment maintenance-
doing things like treating stains, mending small seam pops or holes before they grow, and proper storage in conjunction with conscientious laundering practice will help prolong the life of your garments, and delay the need to purchase replacements. Being a better mender is a goal of mine (my pile of personal mending is ever-growing). As a preventative measure against pests and storage “musk”, I add lavender sachets to my drawers and closets. Dr. Bronner's soap bars (in the paper wrappers) are great for this too! I also use a fast evaporating small batch lavender spritz for the same purpose (not just for refreshing clothes, but also bedding, drapes, etc). And remember: friends don’t let friends use Febreze.
The great news about all these changes is that they really don’t make more work for you, and they are good for your clothes, YOU, and the environment! Nothing like a win-win-win.
]]>If you’re used to shopping conventional retail then you’re probably familiar with the S/M/L or 6/8/10 sizing systems. You’ve probably also experienced how variable those scales can be- even within a single brand. I think those systems can be used as general guideline. For instance if you usually wear pieces labeled a large, you probably won’t find a great fit in something labeled an XS or vice versa.
Beyond that, I recommend you become familiar with a few of your basic measurements to use as a guide for determining fit when shopping for vintage online. Most shops post detailed measurements for this exact reason.
Watch the video below to see a step-by-step demonstration of taking my top 5 favorite measurements (we go through it twice!) or read on below!
To take your measurements you’ll need:
-a measuring tape
-a string to tie around your waist
-a dining chair or similar with flat seat
-typical undergarments for you (for instance, if you usually wear a sports bra, or a padded bra, wear what you are most likely to have on under your clothes on a day-to-day basis)
-a measuring buddy (ideally!)
We’re going to start with the trifecta of measurements:
the bust, waist and hips.
Assume a relaxed, neutral posture with feet hip width apart.
When taking measurements, the tape should be firmly against the skin, but not pulled tight.
Bust: across the nipples and around the chunkiest part of the upper back. You can help your buddy guide the tape or hold the tape in place if you’re bra is slippery. Once tape is in place, relax your arms.
Waist: this is the natural waist, typically the slimmest point of your torso, and usually falls an inch or so above your belly button! Use the string you tied at your waist as a guide for the measuring tape.
Hips: your hips might be lower than you think. The high hip falls right near your hip bones, but for the hip (or you could call it low hip) you actually want to take it at your widest point, sort of the apex of your butt and thighs.
These will be your quick reference for fit on a variety of garments. The next two measurements will help you further hone in on whether something will work for you are not.
Shoulder. Important for gauging fit of tops and dresses with shoulder seams (where sleeve attach to the bodice) to measure:
guide measuring tape across the back from shoulder bone to shoulder bone.
Rise: this is essentially your crotch length and depth, which is really important for gauging fit of pants. to measure:
front: for your front rise, sit on the chair and measure along your outer hip from the waist string to your seat.
full: standing, hold measuring tape at the front of your waist string, loop between the legs and up to the back of the waist string.
KEEP IN MIND: your measurements reflect your body. The measurements provided by shops reflect the garment itself. You typically should account for at least 1” of wiggle room. The garment’s measurements can and should be a little bigger than yours for best fit.
To best understand how your personal measurements relate to your clothing, I suggest taking out a handful of your favorite fitting garments and measuring them to compare and see if you can find any patterns. You may also want to grab a few pieces you keep around that you *don’t* like the fit of (we all have them!) to contrast.
To measure your garments:
Lay them on a flat surface. The ground works!
For bust, waist, and hip measure straight across and double the number. Garments should be flat, but not pulled tight. Remember knits have stretch!
Bust: underarm to underarm
Waist: narrowest point, or waist seam if there’s a seam
Hip: approx. 7” below waist.
Shoulder: seam to seam across the top. Do not double!
Front rise: top of waist band at the front straight down to crotch seam
Back rise: same as above, in the back.
adding the front and back rise will give you the full rise of the pant.
Once you’ve measured enough pieces, you might start noticing some helpful patterns!
For instance, I measure:
shoulder: 15”
rise: 30”
I like a relaxed fit through my shoulders, since my upper arms are a bit bulky and I have an active day-to-day with lots of lifting and reaching. Even though I measure 15" I prefer shirts with at least a 16” shoulder measurement, or shirts with dropped shoulder seams (the seam hits lower on the arm) or no seams at all. A shirt that fits everywhere else, but has a 14” shoulder will not work for me. I shouldn’t buy it.
I prefer high rise pants, so I know to look for pants with a total rise that’s at least 27” (close to my 30” full rise). Knowing the total rise is especially helpful if you are interested in wearing vintage menswear, which is usually cut for fewer curves and might have a different front-to-back-rise ratio than you would expect on a similar women’s garment. If pants fit me everywhere else, but the rise is 26” or lower, I shouldn’t buy them. I also know if the back rise is under 16", they will ride up.
here's a little more on that, and some video of how to measure garments:
find we, mcgee's full reference chart for measuring our vintage here.
]]>One of the highlights of the collection arriving this week is an NRA labeled dress (made out of a wild textile! check it out here!).
N.R.A. in this context stands for National Recovery Administration.
The National Recovery Administration was one of many programs initiated by president Franklin D. Roosevelt to help the country cope with and recover from the economic impacts of the Great Depression. In this case, a collaborative effort between government and privately owned businesses to reduce competition and garuantee fair wages, fair labor practice, and price of goods across industries.
The program was initiatied in 1933 and declared unconstitutional (and subsequently ended) in 1935. Businesses who "Did Their Part" and voluntarily participated in the program displayed a Blue Eagle insignia on their businesses and products to indicate a certain level of patriotism and solidarity with workers.
The Blue Eagle label found on some garments sewn during that interval is therefore incredibly helpful with dating! We can narrow an item's age to a 2 year window. The interesting history, dating certainty, and relative scarcity of NRA labels makes them highly desirable for the collector of early American vintage.
Read more about the National Recovery Administration!
See more examples of NRA labels here!
additional sources:
https://sammydvintage.com/vintage-style/union-labels/
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In a recent interview for a local paper I was asked, “so, what makes something vintage exactly?” It’s an innocent enough question for the vintage non-initiate, but for those of us who work in the industry it can be a complicated, even existential one. So I thought it was worth digging into!
The generally-accepted industry standard is that anything made at least 100 years ago is “antique”, anything made at least 20 years ago (nearly 2000!) is “vintage”. That’s an 80 year window which encompasses huge changes in the global fashion-scape.
So is *every* garment made within that 80 year span “vintage”? And everything made after 1999 just “used”? Are older things more “vintage” than newer things? If age is the only metric you’re using, then technically yes.
But is age the only metric we should be using? Maybe not. What about a poorly-made, low-quality polyester dress made by a Home Ec. student in the 60s? Is that vintage? What about a couture gown from 2005? Is that just “used”? Is a quality, wearable silk top from the 90s less vintage than a shredding 20s silk gown that can’t be worn?
And then there are the decade hoppers:
Something made last year using 1930s fabric? Something made in the 50s and reworked or visibly mended in the 90s? What if it’s hard to tell if it was made in 1998 or 2002?
I sometimes wonder why some sellers and shoppers can get so caught up in the decade of manufacture.
When considering adding vintage to your wardrobe, there are great things to tap from every era and decade of the 20th century. There are drawbacks too.
Earlier eras tend to have distinctive design elements (think beaded silks and dropped waists of the 20s, defined shoulders and draping of the 40s, nipped waists and big skirts of the 50s), quality craftsmanship, a singularity that makes them unique and collectible. They can be harder to find, and more time consuming to clean and repair, and therefore more expensive. They can also be more delicate or difficult to clean, and therefore less wearable and versatile.
Garments from the last quarter of the 20th century (1975-2000) are in abundance, they are often sturdier, machine washable, and stylistically often less era-specific (think high waist jeans, boxy linen tops, floral rayon dresses.) Many pieces even borrow from earlier decades. This era was still pre fast-fashion, but the use of sweat-shop labor was on the rise. Quality could be compromised in order to make things more cheaply.
As always, there are exceptions to every rule. Great craftsmanship (and bad!) can be found in every era, bad labor practices (and good!) can be found in every era.
So what elevates a “used” garment to a “vintage” garment, if not necessarily it’s decade of manufacture? I would suggest it is the quality of the retail experience:
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quality of product: is the collection of good quality? Well-made, wearable, lasting in style and construction?
The perfect vintage buying experience brings all these elements together. There should be style, and substance, and soul. It’s what I admire about my favorite shops & shop owners (they are often one in the same), and it’s what I aspire to in my own shop. It’s a vibe, not a decade.
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As consumers, there’s no better time to be shopping vintage. Social media platforms make it possible to discover small, quality shops and vendors from all over the world specializing in specific eras -from 20s glam, to 90s minimalism- as well as shops curating their own brand of style by mixing eras, concepts, and aesthetics. There’s so much variety to celebrate and so much to be inspired by; and if you find a shop owner whose style you connect with, it’s pure magic!
As shop owners, we should be excited about any and all interest from consumers about buying any and all vintage. A broader definition means a broader fan base. A conventional shopper willing to dip a toe into vintage with an 80s concert tee today might find herself shopping for a 40s dress for her next big event tomorrow.
Almost always, no matter the decade, a vintage purchase is a purchase from a small business owner -often a woman- who is putting that money directly back into her own local community. In all instances, whether a garment was made in 1909 or 2009, buying something used is better for the environment than buying something new. No matter the decade, everybody wins.
To take it a step further, I think it’s important for the vintage-loving community to consider the impact our purchases today will have on the vintage of tomorrow. When we buy contemporary pieces (as many of us do from time to time), maybe we should be asking ourselves: would I be excited to find this at an estate sale in 20 or 30 years? Would I be proud to resell it? Will this even last 20 or 30 years? Chances are, if it’s an impulse buy from a fast fashion retailer, the answer is no. If the answer is no, maybe we leave it behind. With so many independent makers out there creating legacy pieces, paying fair wages, and using sustainable materials and practices from seed to stem, our access to quality contemporary wear has never been better. Their pieces are usually investments, but perhaps it helps to think of it as an investment not just in our own wardrobes, but in the wardrobes of tomorrow. We can be both the guardians of past vintage and the curators of future vintage!
In general, I like to think of the vintage space is an important (perhaps even founding!) part of the slow fashion movement, which has gained momentum as a reaction to the frenzy and waste of today’s contemporary fashion culture. We should see ourselves as partners with the designers and craftsmen making new & few products in old ways, the people reworking and restyling thrifted goods, and the folks curating quality secondhand for resale. We can’t be a productive part of the bigger conversation about the future of the fashion industry if we aren’t having productive, supportive conversations within our own community. Perhaps keeping a broad, quality-based understanding of what makes vintage, “vintage,” will help us do that.
]]>As a vintage seller with an interest in many decades I come across unfamiliar labels every week. Some pique my curiosity more than others. When I saw this new-to-me label in a denim wrap top, I knew it deserved some digging into. This piece also came with a little provenance from the original owner, and I knew it had been a special purchase when she picked it up on a trip to Paris in the early 80s.
My initial searches led me to wonder if this could be a line by French designer Dorothee Bis (more on her in a later blog maybe!). But it didn't quite add up. Then, through cross-comparing some other BIS listings I had found online I realized the critical piece of information my label was missing: the designer's name: Gene Ewing!
ah-hah! This opened up access to a lot more information!
Gene Ewing grew up in North Carolina where her mother had been a hat designer. Her education included time at the Sorbonne in Paris, and an internship at Balenciaga in Spain. She eventually made her way west to New York, then LA and began designing under the Label BIS Gene Ewing with her manufacturing partner and husband (her 4th!) in 1976.
"Her first big success in sports clothes was the prairie skirt." And you can definitely see that western, easy-going So-Cal influence in many of her designs. The label grew through the 80s and by '89 was doing $40 million-a-year in volume. She is quoted as saying "I don't want to do a billion-dollar volume like Liz Claibourne or Ralph Lauren. There comes a point where you have to stop. After $100 million, I couldn't be original anymore. A billion-dollar volume is staggering."
(for the record I share her POV on this, definitely stopping when we, mcgee hits 100 mill. gotta stay fresh)
read more from this story/interview here.
I didn't have much success finding original BIS ads showcasing the clothing, but her pieces come up here and there for resale around the internet. I love Ewing's breezy, feminine designs, and especially her use of denim and corduroy. The quality of construction is fantastic. I would be thrilled to have this jumpsuit, or this red skirt set!
(skirt image via LadyBirdVintageLA (sold), jumpsuit images via Objects without Meaning (sold), skirt set image via PinnacleVintageCo, (unavailable))
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as an online retailer of physical goods, packing and shipping is a big part of we, mcgee's daily ops. from day one I've spent a lot of time thinking about how best to package your orders to balance efficiency (for me), delight (for you), and impact (for mama Earth, and our kids).
Switching over to more ecofriendly packaging is a move that addresses all three concerns. So I'm excited to share that as of 2020, we, mcgee's packaging is about 95% derived from recycled materials (meaning no new plastic was created, no new trees were cut down). In addition to that, all our paper boxes and mailers are 100% recyclable and biodegradable, and our polymailers are reusable (they have a second seal-able strip so you can literally use them again!) and recyclable where ever soft plastics (#2 and #4) are accepted.
I will continue to use a mix of paper and plastic packaging for orders, with variations depending on size and fragility. All orders will ship with either an interior plastic sleeve or an exterior polymailer envelope. This is a precaution against water and general handling damage. I dislike relying on plastics (even recycled ones!) but I recognize the purpose they serve, and also have been surprised to learn that in some ways plastic packaging can have lower eco-impacts (for instance they are lighter and take up less room than paper, so have a smaller carbon footprint when shipped and stored in bulk. Also paper/pulp products are very resource intensive to make), but alas, they do not biodegrade.
If you are committed to reducing your own reliance on single use plastics, and prefer to receive your order without plastic packaging, I am happy to accommodate you. Please just comment "no plastic please" in the comment field provided in your cart before you head to checkout!
+ I promise to continue to seek out packaging options that will best serve you, the business, and the planet, as they become available!
]]>if you've followed we, mcgee for a while you know fostering a more sustainable retail experience is important to me (Shannon). I didn't always love vintage for its gentle social and environmental impact, but now its what I love most about it. I try to bring this value to bear across all aspects of the shop, which is why I'm always working on ways to reduce the single use plastics and carbon footprint of we, mcgee's shipping supplies and why 1% of annual revenue is donated to causes that empower women (improving access to education, family planning, and fair wages for women will have a big positive impact on global social and environmental outcomes).
This year, I'd like to apply some of these goals more intentionally to my own wardrobe:
1. no fast fashion (this won't be a big one for me, as I'm already pretty disengaged with the fast fashion industry. But making it a hard rule means eliminating those handful of times a year I make a guilty pleasure, dirty little impulse buy at TJ Maxx or Target.
2. no impulse fashion buys of any sort. I have a bad habit of grabbing things for myself when I'm sourcing for we, mcgee. usually pieces that are cool, but too modern, too damaged, or just outside the scope of the shop, but also not things I really need. I usually buy without trying on, and for one reason or another, they end up back in the donate pile. NO MORE. this one will be harder for me.
3. examination of my own style + fashion goals coordinated with wardrobe overhaul. you'd think someone who curates a clothing shop would have a handle on their personal style, but honestly, I'm kind of all over the place these days, and the shop is a major enabler (see above). In addition, since being pregnant/postpartum, and now raising a toddler while running the shop, I've leaned heavily into pieces that offer comfort and utility and lots of cute/cool stuff is languishing in drawers and closets. I'd like get a little less sartorially congested and a little more focused.
4. identify 3-5 true gaps in my wardrobe and fill them strategically with pieces that are vintage or made by vetted "slow fashion" makers.
In order to make these lofty goals acheivable, I'm spreading the process out into steps over the course of the year, which leads me to
5. accompany each step with a reading listing to help me gain some insights into my own wardrobe and fashion industry in general. Starting this month with The Curated Closet.
Anyone want to join me?! Nothing New 2020: closet clean out, fashion book club?!
January: read The Curated Closet and get a grip
February: clean out party/formal wear, accessories and jewelry.
start piles (not literal piles.. bins?):
-keep
-mend
-swap
-donate
-sell
Start reading: The Conscious Closet
anyways, I'll let you know how its going for me.
]]>Hi All + Happy 2020!
like many, the start of a new year typically stirs in me an increased sense of urgency to make the changes or start the habits I've been thinking about all the previous year(s), personal goals (drink more water, don't bring my phone to bed, etc.) but also business ones! One over-arching goal of mine is to create an online platform for we, mcgee that feels cohesive, unique, and community oriented. Opening the stand-alone website in 2019 was part of that goal, but its felt largely like a foundation with scaffolding, waiting for me to start building it out. Some of that is aesthetics, some of it content, some it functionality. To begin with, I've made some small (but badly needed!) tweaks to the checkout process that will hopefully create a smoother and more intuitive experience for you. I hope you will reach out and let me know if there's any part of your the process you find frustrating or confusing!
Another piece of the equation is launching a newsletter. I hope this will be a fun and useful way for me to connect with you, and for you to connect with the vintage! Right now, I plan to send one out every 2 weeks, coordinated with the release of a new collection. Newsletters will include a direct link to shop new pieces, as well as highlights, previews of upcoming collections, exclusive discount codes, and maybe some shop talk (like this!) It will certainly evolve a bit as I become more familiar with the application, and as I learn what works for you.
Thanks for being along for the ride with me! Excited to keep building a platform, and bringing you the vintage you love in 2020.
Cheers,
Shannon
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